A buying guide for Karabiners & Connectors
The choice of karabiner comes down to its intended use. All karabiners are certified for use on their major axis with the gate locked. Foreseeable misuse is catered for on the other axis.
Loading a karabiner in the following ways can be dangerous and could lead to the failure of the karabiner due to a loss of strength of 70% or more:
- Open gate
- Minor axis
- More than two directions
- Over an edge
- Cantilever
- Overloading
Pressure and rubbing against the locking sleeve can not only open the gate but can also create a dangerous situation as the sleeve is the weakest part of a karabiner.
Considerations
Load direction (shape)
Device(s) it’s being used with
Gate action
Activity
Ergonomics
Weight
Material
Semi-permanent
The Standard
Load direction.
D shaped – to position the load in the strongest direction.
Oval – symmetrical shape for even load distribution.
Pear – for high capacity / bulky items.
Wide opening – for attaching to anchors.
Multidirectional – for loading in more than two directions.
Karabiner Gate Action
| Screw Lock | |
|---|---|
| Pros | Cons |
| Can be opened with one hand | Vibration can lock the sleeve |
| Reliable in dirty / harsh conditions | Rubbing can unlock the sleeve |
| User manually locks the sleeve | User forgets to lock the sleeve |
| Tri lock | |
| Pros | Cons |
| Rapid autolocking | Difficult sleeve operation |
| Secure triple action locking | Two hands needed to insert a device |
| Chance of something stopping the sleeve locking | |
| Foreign objects can prevent locking | |
| Double action | |
| Pros | Cons |
| Ease of opening | Cantilever loading |
| Rapid autolocking | Pressure from structure can open gate |
| Two separate actions | |
| Semi-permanent connection | |
| Pros | Cons |
| Very secure | Tool required for connection / disconnection |
| Twist lock | |
| Pros | Cons |
| Speed of opening | Two hands needed to insert a device |
| Rapid auto-locking | Chance of something stopping the sleeve locking |
| Ball lock | |
| Pros | Cons |
| Rapid auto-locking | Two hands needed to insert a device |
| Visual locking indicator | |
| Pin lock | |
| Pros | Cons |
| Helps prevent inadvertent disconnection | Tool required for connection / disconnection |
| Secure triple action locking | |
As you can see, there is generally a compromise between security and ergonomics.
Some manufacturers give guidance on which karabiners to use with which device. They also produce accessories to ensure the correct orientation / position and to avoid cross-loading.
Certification
EN 362 Personal protective equipment against falls from a height. Connectors.
EN 12275 Mountaineering equipment.Connectors.
UIAA 121 Connectors.